Cornice Board Bonanza Part 2

So, I hope you didn't think I was going to leave you hanging without, er, hanging that board!!  Look, there are at least 5 different ways I can think of to hang these boards. All of them (save hiring someone to do it for you) will take you time.  I chose to spend more time on the "prep" end and save time on the hanging end of things.

Here's what you'll need for this portion of the project:
blue painters tape
measuring tape
thin piece plexiglass or plywood
"U" brackets similar to these (as many as pieces of plexi/plywood)
drill
drill bit
1-1/2" and 1/2" screws


First, cut the plexi into 2-5 same-size pieces.  The hardware store I bought mine at did it for me.  We cut  an 8 x 10 piece of thin plexi into six equal pieces.  Plywood works too, and is recommended for anything that's over 10-15 pounds.  (The plexi will shatter.  Do not ask me how I know this.)

With the protective film still on the plexi, drill two pilot holes into each piece, across the long side.

I did the short side, but trust me, the long side is much better.

Remove the protective film.

Holey Plexi, Batman!

Lay the plexi on the back of the cornice near the top of each side and measure and mark.

 You want them to be equidistant from the corner and from the top.

More measuring.

Here's the breakdown on plexi placement:  You want the plexi in a spot that will cause the cornice to cover the portion of the "u" bracket that is attached to the wall once everything is hung.  The idea is for the cornice to look like it's floating, so pieces of hardware sticking out would be bad.  So, make sure there are at least as many inches from the top of the cornice board to the bottom of the plexi as there are inches of "u" bracket on the wall.

Back to our step-by-step, k?

Screw those bad-boy pieces of plexi into the back of the cornice where you've determined the best spot to be.

Now, you can do this next part one of two ways.  You can measure measure measure and measure again where you've screwed the plexi and then mark on the wall where they will be when the cornice is on the wall, or you can have your helper(s) hold it up to the wall where you want it to be and mark the spots with a pencil.  (Requires 1-2 helpers, depending on size of cornice and 1-2 ladders, depending on height of helpers and desired height of cornice.)

We chose option 2.  (Obviously, we were all busy, so I have no pictures of this step.)  (Plus, I'm really new to this and am really REALLY bad about taking pictures.)

Next, use simple (?!?) math to calculate the height of the U bracket on the wall.  Screw those brackets into the wall at the previously-decided upon spot.  Here's a picture of my helper/design assistant David doing the grunt work for me.  

Measuring the height.

Close-up!

Screwing the bracket into the wall.

A quick side note about Dave: He is (one of) my son's godfather(s) and is the BEST helper I could ask for.  He's got an engineering mind and a knack for math that totally astounds me.  He employs it almost daily to engineer the things I dream up and then helps me create them.  (Ya happy now, Dave?)

I digress.
Here's a picture of the brackets!  We had ours engineered at the hardware store by a really accommodating employee, so ours were the right depth away from the wall.

Brackety brackets

(Note: these are not recommended for the really heavy cornices.  They are NOT strong enough. More on that later.)

Another sidenote: you probably don't need to use anchors in the wall above the window, because there should be a wooden beam above them.  The same is true for the sides of the windows as well.  They are usually framed in pretty well.  Usually.

So, now that you've hung the brackets and screwed the plexi into the backs of the cornices, you're ready to hang them!!  The reason I suggested using the plexi in landscape orientation (long way across the top) as opposed to the portrait orientation (short side across the top), is because you will have more room to adjust the cornice from side to side when you are hanging it.

Another tip: you do not need to use a spacer between the plexi and the cornice.  The batting on the back of the cornice will help with any give you might need in between them.

Getting ready to hang it!

TADA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 Another picture:

Beautiful, idn't it?

We learned a few lessons while doing this project.  Here is one of the most important ones:

They do not make sheets of plywood bigger than 4' x 8'.  If the span of windows you want to dress with a cornice is greater than 8', you'll have to brace two pieces together.  We did this with extra plywood across the back of the two pieces we had cut.  However, I would advise this:  If you have a window bigger than, say 5', use foam core board for your cornice.  I think you'll end up using staples and spray adhesive for the attaching agents, and I don't know the exact logistics for putting the plexi on the back, but it will be worth it to you to consider it.  The weight alone makes it worth considering and working out the details with an engineer-minded friend.  When we went to hang the beast over my breakfast room windows, the plexi shattered immediately and the cornice fell on top of us.  (Doh!)  We ended up using plywood (with washers for spacers) instead of plexi, and that worked, except the weight of the cornice has bent the "u" brackets and now we're trying desperately to come up with a solution for bendy brackets.

If anyone is actually reading this and wants to DIY cornices and needs clarification or questions answered, feel free to email me or comment!  I'm happy to help make this project easier and more streamlined for the next person!!

And THAT is what I did one day while my son was sleeping!

XO,

MM.